MOM'S MULTIFACETED WORKBENCH
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PEGBOARD SIDES
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We used eight 21" X 28-1/2" pieces of pegboard to close in the sides of the bench and support the top. Segments of these dimensions produce a table 36-1/2" high, but you could add to or subtract from the longer dimension of the pegboard to alter the bench's overall height.
Allow the pegboard to overlap the 1 X 8 base by about one inch, and screw the perforated sheets to the wood behind them. For an added measure of security, corner braces should be attached where the pegboard sections meet. A few inches of plumber's tape (metal strap with holes) and a pair of screws for each brace (applied from the inside, of course, so they can't be seen) should suffice.
JOINING THE TOP AND BASE
Because the top is somewhat heftier than the base, we turned the working surface face down on the floor and fastened the base—upside down—to it. To make the connection, two 54" and four 22" lengths of 1 X 2 were first screwed to the underside of the 1-1/2"—thick table . . . in the same X-pattern as the base, but set so that the distance between the outside edges of the cross's arms would be 12 inches. The pegboard could then slide over this frame on the tabletop's underside and be secured, again with wood screws, directly to the 1 X 2's.
BUILDING THE STORAGE SPACES
Once the table's been flipped back over so that it's right side up, a decision must be made about what kinds of storage units will be needed in the four cavities. We chose to put two small drawers and a large one in one opening, one large drawer and a shelf on the opposite side, and a swing-open door over the third. We left the last side open to accept pieces of lumber. This arrangement, of course, was intended to suit our specific purposes . . . there are lots of other ways to set up the storage areas. But bear in mind, as you plan, that drawers—whose sides will run flush against the inside of the pegboard—will prevent placing any hooks outside those areas. Therefore, if you install too many drawers, you may eliminate the bench's tool-hanging capability!
The drawers themselves are built from "oneby" lumber and 1/4" plywood. To construct each of the smaller ones, you will need two sections of 1/4" X 6-3/8" X 20-1/4" B-B interior plywood (which will form the sides), another piece of the B-B plywood that measures 1/4" X 11-1/4" X 20-1/4" (for the bottom), a 1 X 5-3/8" X 11-1/4" backboard, a 1 X 7-1/4" X 12-1/2" front piece, and two 3/4" X 3/4" X 19-3/4" drawer slides.
