MOM'S WASHING MACHINE POTTER'S WHEEL

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On Maytag units, you'll need to cut back the housing around the drive spindle about 1/2" . . . to provide enough engagement of the head on the spindle to prevent wobbling. (Just cut around the tube with a hacksaw, but be careful not to mar the bronze bushing which is set into the sleeve.)

Cast epoxy makes a very serviceable head for the wheel . . . since it's practically unbreakable, easy to form, and provides just the right amount of adhesion for the clay. We made ours by pouring the resins into a smooth eight-inch pie pan . . . but you can cast yours in any size that you feel is appropriate to the kind of work you intend to do.

Once the epoxy has hardened, find the exact center of the head and mount an H X 7/8" malleable split-taper H bushing on the underside. The screw holes will need to be drilled and tapped, and it's a good idea to set two of the fasteners from the bottom and two from the top—by countersinking them into the surface for extra strength. Then test the bushing's fit on the transmission spindle, and squeeze the split-taper in a vise until it will nestle snugly on the shaft. (As added insurance against the head's spinning on the shaft, you can fashion a locking key—which will slide into the transmission spindle and the bushing's keyways—using a piece of 3/16" steel.)

While experienced potters may not feel that a splash pan is necessary, throwing a pot can be a pretty messy experience . . . especially for the novice. A suitable drip catcher can be made by cutting a 1-1/2" hole in the center of a 16-1/2"diameter hog pan. Just slip the modified container over the transmission drive housing, add a rubber grommet to prevent leaks between the pan and spindle case . . . and you'll have a splash retainer that's easy to remove for cleaning.

THE FRAME

Our Maytag transmission and drive motor are encased in a triangle of lumber, which allows the use of the original gearbox mounting holes in conjunction with a set of brackets made from angle iron. You should use either a miter box or a radial arm saw to cut the angled pieces of the chassis, but "guestimation" and some filing will get you close enough for an acceptably snug fit.

Start the framing by fitting the two long sides of the triangle to the double-width leg and the two side legs. Then line up the transmission unit between the long 2 X 6 boards—set high enough to allow the spindle shaft to reach at least three inches through the soon-to-be-added top—and bend two pieces of angle iron to form the side brackets. Once you've secured the drive assembly in its mounts, attach the third side of the triangle and bolt the rear transmission mount directly to the wood.

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