OLD - TIMEY WOODEN PLAYTHINGS

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Next, cut four lengths of 1/4" dowelthree 1-1/2" long and one 3-1/2" long-and glue the shorter "sticks" into the three holes near the leading edge of the hood, and the longer one into the angled hole on the dashboard side of the block. Then drill a 3/8" hole-centered and 3/4 inch in from one end-through the 7/8"wide surface of each of the 3/4" X 7/8" X 8-3/8" lengths of wood (these bores will accommodate the rear axle), and then thread one small screw eye into the wood at a point 3/4 inch forward of each of these two holes. . . as guides for the drive system's strings.

Now-using glue and four 1-1/2" finishing nails-attach the "hood and dashboard" assembly to the undrilled ends of the 8-3/8" long pieces of wood . . . so that the front of the hood is flush with the ends of the boards. (Hint: Drive the nails through the "frame" of the car from the bottom, then into the "hood and dashboard" assembly.)

With the basic frame completed, you can now make the front axle- supports by sawing out two 1/2" X 1/2" X 1-1/2" blocks of scrap, and drilling a 3/8"-diameter notch in each one, as illustrated. Fasten these up front (with the holes, of course, lined up across from each other) onto the bottom of the car's 8-3/8"-long, "frame rails", using four No. 6 X 1" roundhead wood screws . . . one at each end of the two axle supports.

The axles are two 5-5/8" lengths of 5/16" dowel, and the wheels are cut from 3/4" board: 2-3/8"-diameter discs for the rear, and 1-1/2"diameter circles for the front (each of the four wheels should have a 5/16" axle hole drilled in its center). Slip the front axle through the holes in its supports and glue the 1-1/2"diameter wheels to each axle end. Then, find yourself two spools with 5/16"-diameter holes (one with a drum diameter of 1/2" and the other of about, but no larger than, 3/4"), and hold them in place between the frame rails at the rear of the car with one hand while-with the other-you push the axle through its support holes and the two spools (until the ends of the axle protrude evenly on both sides).

Now it's a simple matter to drill one 1/16" hole through the center of each spool and through the axle within it . . . and just as easy to tie one end of a 36" length of tough string through the hole in the larger spool, and roll most of it up on the "drum" (with about 2" left over). And, while you're tying, you can push one end of a 36" length of 30-pound-test monofilament fishing line through the hole in the smaller spool and fasten it in the same way. Then glue each of the 2-3/8"-diameter wheels to its end of the axle, and you're ready to rig up the rubber band drive system.

To do this, turn the buggy upside down, then scare up a dozen (or so) long, thick rubber bands. Now get yourself three small S-hooks . . . put the ends of two or three of the bands into one of the hooks . . . wrap them around the first peg at the front of the car (directly opposite the smaller spool) . . . bring 'em back to the hook . . . and loop their free ends onto the "S", too. Next, take the fishing line and pass it through the "open" end of the hook, then thread it through the screw eye right in front of the small spool. Now, loop another rubberband-and-hook assembly over the middle peg . . . string your line through that . . . pass it through the remaining screw eye (in front of the large spool) . . . hook it through a last rubber band and "S" arrangement on the final peg . . . and tie it to the shank of the "large-spool side" screw eye. (Be sure to draw the line up snuglyso there's no slack-before you tie it off. )

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