OLD - TIMEY WOODEN PLAYTHINGS

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FIRE TRUCK

Here's a real bruiser of a toy that can take unbelievable amounts of child-inflicted punishment without breaking . . . and it's big enough to hold just about any li'l shaver we can think of! (In fact, according to Richard C. Redmond of Auburn, New York-who built such a truck for his grandson before sending the plans to our offices so MOTHER could try 'em out-"The youngster couldn't break it with a hammer! " )

Now we hope that not everyone's toys will have to go through that kind of torture test, but it's good to know that the truck is designed to last.

Start constructing the fire engine's cab section by scrounging up two pieces of 3/4" X 2-1/8" X 16-1/4" wood (which will become the frame side rails), then cutting a 3/4" X 2" X 15-1/2" piece (this'll be the frame top) and a 3/4" X 2" X 2-1/8" block (it'll become the frame end). Fasten all these together with No. 10 X 1-1/2" panhead screws (using the screw placement indications in the illustration as guides), then drill a 13/16" hole-at a position 3-1/2 inches forward of the "boxed" end of the frame-to hold the trailer hitch peg.

To make your fire truck's wheels, cut ten 3-1/4"diameter discs out of a piece of 3/4"-thick lumber, then drill a 1/2" hole in the center of each one. Next, make four axle supports as illustrated-two 3/4" X 3/4" X 4", and two 3/4" X 3/4" X 7"-angle their edges slightly, and screw them to the bottom of the frame side rails at both the front and the rear of the truck (the front supports should be set back 1/2 inch from the leading edge of the frame).

Now drill a total of six 9/16" axle holes, centered on the joint between the frame and the axle supports . . . the front ones 2-1/2 inches back from the forward edge of the frame, the leading rear pair 8-1/2 inches behind that, and the trailing rear set 3-1/2 inches behind the bores in front of them. Then slip a 1/2" X 5-3/4" dowel through the forward axle holes, and two 1/2" X 7-1/2" dowels through the hind axle holes. Put a 1/2" steel flat washer on the protruding end of each aft axle, push on a wheel and another 1/2" flat washer . . . then glue on the outside wheel. Up front, just slip a 1/2" flat washer on each end of the dowel and glue one wheel in place on each side.

Make the body of the cab by cutting two pieces of 3/4"-thick wood to 5" X 10" . . . another to 5" X 7" . . . and two more to 2" X 4-3/4". Cut a 3-1/2" X 5" windshield opening-1 inch from the top of one of the 3/4" X 5" X 10" pieces-and a rear window opening (measuring 3" X 3-3/4") 2 inches from the top of the other 3/4" X 5" X 10" piece. You'll also have to remove a 2" X 3-1/2" block-as illustrated-at the lower end of this rear section . . . so the cab can fit over the frame.

Fashion a seat out of a 3-1/2" length of 2 X 4, as shown in the accompanying drawing, then put the truck cab together with No. 10 X 1-1/2" pan screws. Now you can fasten the cab to the frame with two screws through the front and one-at the rear-from underneath . . . and glue the seat to the back of the cab and the frame. (As an added touch, cut off two 3/4" sections of broom handle and glue them to the front of the cab as headlights.)

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