Solar On A Shoestring: Mother's Corrugated Collector
(Page 2 of 2)
November/December 1979
By the Mother Earth News editors
Once the paint is dry, lay each piece of ripple board on an appropriate frame member, and secure the "wobble wood" with three nails per section. The translucent corrugated fiberglass fits right over the wood, and—after you've drilled a hole that's three sizes smaller than the diameter of the rubber-sealed roofing nails (which secure the covering) through every third bump in both the wood and the glass—you can caulk the surfaces and affix the light—admitting material.
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Finally, tack and carefully apply silicone-seal to a 12-foot strip of "dripedge" along the top and bottom of the collector ... to seal the fiberglass and protect the wood from rain. Then cut a 94 X 8" vent in the vertical 2 X 4 next to the exhaust duct, to allow the collector to breathe during extremely warm spells. (Of course, this hole should be plugged when you're using the solar heater.) In addition, if you live in a very windy climate, you may wish to add an extra layer of glazing for insulation. (We've found the 3M Company's Flexigard plastic, in 3-mil thickness, to be an excellent substance for this purpose.)
To start your solar "heater" up, just insert a blower (about one cubic-foot-per-minute capacity for each square foot of collector) in the intake duct, and let the sunshine warm your home. In moderate climates, two of these devices can heat your entire abode for less than $300 total cost (including the blowers). At that rate, the materials should return your investment in less than a year.
Material List
(4) 2'-foot by 12-foot sheets corrugated fiberglass
(3) 3/4 inch by 4-foot by 8-foot sheets Thermax
(9) 8-foot strips ripple board
(2) 12-foot strips "drip edge"
(1) quart flat black paint
(3) tubes silicone caulking
(7) 8-foot long 2-by-4s
(2) 12-foot 2-by-4s
nails
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