Homegrown Music and...Musical Instrument! The homegrown ""bonker box""

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The planks used on the instrument's sides and bottom are not as critical as is the "top" material. Just remember that harder wood will generally produce a brighter tone.

As you may have guessed, bonker box dimensions can vary over a considerable range. The size of your drum will be determined by how you plan to play the instrument. Since the base of the box should never rest solidly on a surface while the music maker is in use, a small unit-which can be cradled between your knees-is the best bet. (If you decide to make a large drum, build a stand for it, or at least set the box up on strips of rubber or felt so as not to damp the tone.)

Although it's possible to construct a bonker box with the simplest of hand tools, you'll find it easier to get tight joints (and superior sound) if you use a table saw or jointer. Folks who don't happen to have the appropriate tools may be able to barter with a local handyman for the labor . . . or buy the boards from a lumberyard that'll cut 'em to shape. (And, for those people who have no wish to design their own bonker boxes, I've included the complete dimensions for two sample drums in the sidebar that accompanies this column.)

The slots in the drum's top-which produce the tongue-shaped keys-can be made with a drill and a jigsaw or saber saw. Each note maker should be 1" to 1-1/2" wide . . . and the margins around the keys-on all four sides should be of similar (but not necessarily identical) widths. (The long margins will-on drums with a slit along the box's side boards-produce tones of their own . . . so you may want to make these borders of unequal widths to increase your instrument's "range".)

Lay out the proposed cuts-with pencil lines parallel to the lengthwise edges of the plank. If your top is to be 6" wide, for example, you might draw the first line at a point 1-3/8" from the edge, the next scribe 11/2" farther, and another after a second space of 1-1/2" . . . which would leave a 1-5/8" margin on the far side. (These dimensions, of course, will be diminished by the width of your saw blade . . . perhaps by as much as 1/8". )

Now draw two lines-perpendicular to your lengthwise scribes-to establish the short outside borders of your musical tongues. Be sure that these margins (on the lid's ends) are at least as wide as those on the sides. Drill 3/8" "starter holes" for your saw blade where the two sets of lines intersect. Then simply use the saw to cut a narrow slot between each pair of holes ... following the "long" pencil marks as you go.

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