Three (low-cost) Composters
(Page 3 of 5)
March/April 1979
By the Mother Earth News staff
The two barrels used for this project will need to be of the same dimensions, so—since diameter, rib spacing, and height vary a great deal from one manufacturer to the next—be certain the two you choose are identical.
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Once you've found a matched pair of rust-free, undamaged containers, use a saber saw to open one of the drums— lengthwise—on three of its sides: In other words, cut the container almost in half by slicing its top, one side, and its bottom ... but leave the fourth side intact. Then saw a small notch out of each rib on the uncut side, and "open" the drum like a suitcase (you might have to "persuade" the metal to bend in the direction you want by tapping it with a hammer).
Next, cut the second barrel lengthwise into two parts, being sure to leave two metal flanges—as shown in the drawing —on one of the newly formed "half-barrels". Now, fold back the flanges 25°-30°, insert the flanges of the half-barrel under the cut sides of the opened drum, drill the holes as shown, and bolt the two components together.
Once those pieces are fastened, cut (or have your local sheet metal shop cut for you) two 26" equilateral sheet-metal triangles, and trim off the points so the pieces will fit snugly over the openings in the ends of the drum assembly. Drill a series of 9/32" holes, as illustrated, through the triangles and the barrel ends ... then fasten these components together with 1/4" X 1/2" roundhead bolts and nuts.
With this done, drill a 3/4" hole in the exact center of both ends, then reinforce each of these holes by bolting a 3/4" floor flange directly over it. The flange will provide support for the 1/2" X 42-1/2" section of electrical conduit that will serve as the composter's "axle". You can also take this opportunity to drill several 1" ventilation holes in each end of the container.
Next, cut a 15" X 29" hatch in the side of any one of the container's three clover-leaf sections, and—using the remaining half of the second barrel—fashion a covering for this hole (make sure this "door" has at least a 1-1/2" overlap all around its perimeter so that the opening will be well sealed). Fasten the door to the composter with a pair of window latches, mounted one at each end. Then attach the handles (at least one to each "cloverleaf"), and, finally, cover the entire barrel assembly with a coat of dark paint.
The stand that supports the drums is constructed of 2 X 4's bolted together as shown in the illustrations . . . with the upper horizontal supports joining the four legs in half-lap joints, and the lower supports set into notches cut out of the legs. The ends of the four 1" X 4" cross braces are then cut at 45° and the braces are screwed in place between the legs and lower supports. When the stand is assembled, you can either seal it from the weather or give it a good coat of paint.
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