Mother's Christmas Lamp: BUILD IT IN ONE EVENING

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Next cut the 1/4" X 8" dowel into eight equal lengths and glue one into each of the 1/4" holes drilled into the corners of the two 5-1/2" X 5-1/2" squares of wood. The four 3/4" X 3/4" X 5-7/8" comer supports are then glued—with their grooves facing "in"—to the dowels that you've just fitted to the lamp's base. Before this glue dries. It's a good Idea to slip all four of the pane. of glass down Into the comer support grooves and put the lamp's cover in place temporarily . . . just for fit. Do not glue the cover in place.

Glue the 3/8" X 1" dowel to the bottom of the glass bulb with epoxy and, while It's drying, sew up the cushion that will go under the bulb. This is done by stitching your fabric into a little pillow (with a 3/8' hole through its center) that will measure 3-1/2" X 3-1/2" after it's stuffed about an inch thick with cotton. (Sew around three sides of the cushion, stuff it, sad then sew up the fourth side and make the hole in the middle of the pillow.)

And, finally, thread the pipe cleaner through the glass or copper tubing and trim it off so that both its ends are just even with (or slightly recessed into) the ends of the tube. Fill the bulb with either charcoal tighter or a pleasantly scented lamp oil, slip the cushion up over the dowel on the bulb's bottom. remove the lamp's cover and fit the dowel into the 13/32' bole in the lamp's base, and then very carefully slide the tube/pipe-cleaner wick down into the neck of the glass bulb and position It so that the wick b standing straight up.

You'll be able to light your Christmas lamp and replace its cover just as soon as the fluid soaks up into the wick. Then, to adjust the flame, merely slide the wick up or down within the tube. And don't worry about replacing that pipe cleaner: As long as it doesn't protrude above the tubing's top end, the flame will bum above - not on - the wick.

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