BUILD THIS FOOD GRINDER STAND

(Page 2 of 2)

January/February 1978
 
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The curves on the top and side members of the stand pictured here were laid out merely by moving the bottom of an oval wastebasket around on each piece of wood until it "looked good" and then tracing around it. Just remember to leave enough wood in the narrowest part of the top for your grinder's "foot" to clamp to ... and to make the top's curved cutout "wide enough" (at least eight inches) so that no ground food can fall on it.

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Use rabbet (as shown) instead of butt joints when you assemble your stand. Rabbet joints are hardly any more complicated to make than butts, yet are far stronger. And, since it's easy to give a good grinder (and whatever it's mounted on) a real workout from time to time, strength is the name of the game on this mini-project. For the same reason, the side-to-top joints should be reinforced with two corner brackets as indicated.

Although Clarence left his stand "raw", you can sand yours and finish it off with a coat or two of any non-toxic paint or sealer if you wish. You may also want to glue a sponge rubber mat to its bottom to keep it from slipping around during a tough grinding job.

Hard and fast dimensions for this stand have not been given on purpose. As long as you build yours sturdy enough, you can make it any size (within reason) that you need ... to fit the biggest bowl you have in the kitchen. A bowl large enough to catch every dribble from both ends of your food grinder!

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