Mother's Mini-Manual: Greenhouse Gardening
(Page 3 of 20)
November/December 1976
By the Mother Earth News editors
A self-supporting greenhouse, on the other hand, can be situated in the one spot on your property that is most ideal for its location (rather than being tacked onto the south or west side of the house where solar fall, prevailing winds, etc., might be far less than ideal for its operation). This one fact alone might well outweigh all the points in favor of an add-on glasshouse.
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CONSTRUCTION AND ZONING PERMITS
Needless to say, anyone who plans to build a greenhouse should check with the appropriate officials to make sure that the proposed structure, lean-to or freestanding, will meet applicable zoning ordinances and building codes. COMMONSENSE TIP: Acquire all necessary permits and make sure you understand all local requirements (note, for example, whether or not your permits lay down hard and fast specifications for the greenhouse foundation) before you begin construction. It could save you a lot of time, money and frustration later.
LOCATION¹
Consider these six guidelines while planning your site:
1.AVAILABILITY OF MAXIMUM SUNLIGHT. Many gardeners prefer a north-south direction so each side of the greenhouse then receives the maximum amount of sunlight. Anticipate shadows cast by tall buildings or trees, those in place or to come. Even those located 60-70 feet away may shade during winter when the sun is low, either in early morning or late afternoon. Sometimes tall deciduous trees to the west can be a blessing in disguise by actually reducing intense afternoon sunlight during the summer, yet allowing light to filter through the leafless limbs during the winter.
2. DIRECTION AND FORCE OF PREVAILING WINDS. Try to locate the greenhouse where it is not subjected to severe blasts of prevailing winds. Such a location may trap sun in summer, but in late fall, winter, and early spring it can vastly increase the cost of heating. Windspeed can be reduced by planting or building a proper windbreak. Use a slat-type fence or a hedge planted about 15 feet away from the side of the greenhouse. Here the secret is to stay away from dense plants or a solid fence, for a solid windbreak made either of wood or of dense foliage actually increases the windspeed as it is forced over the top, thus developing a more cooling action across the greenhouse covering than if the windbreak were not there.
3. DRAINAGE, BOTH SURFACE AND UNDERGROUND.
Select a well-drained location. If necessary, add soil fill so that rainwater will drain away from the greenhouse. To aid underground drainage (if this is a problem) plan to lay 4-inch perforated, plastic pipes to carry away excessive underground water. If you live in an area controlled by a building code, be sure pipes drain into the storm sewer, if one is available.
4. GENERAL CONVENIENCE
If possible, choose a site convenient to incoming and outgoing traffic. There is nothing more exasperating or harder on the back (to say nothing of wasted time) than to carry supplies a good distance from the truck to the greenhouse or to get the plant products from the greenhouse to the truck. If the problem exists, a short driveway designed during the planning stage generally does the trick. Also, give convenience due consideration in traveling between house and greenhouse. Even if the distance is short, a sidewalk connecting the two is usually worth every cent of the cost.
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