HINA: We Built a Live-on Boat for $300
(Page 4 of 4)
January/February 1976
By Bill Hyslop
INSTALLING THE BOTTOM
RELATED CONTENT
In this kind of vessel design, the bottom plays an important structural role. Its installation is not difficult, but should be done carefully to assure maximum strength and watertight joints (Fig. 15). The chine bevel should ensure a perfectly smooth fit between the sides and the floor. Regularity of surface along this junction is crucial. One way to make sure the bevels on both sides are equal is to rip the chines from a wider board. Or, if you had one, you could use a table saw. No matter how carefully you cut, though, some hand planing maybe necessary. We used a Stanley hand planer with good results.
You can tell if you need to plane by laying a straight edge across the chines and sides. It should fit snugly against all surfaces (Fig. 16).
Excess wood can be removed with a rasp. Check your work frequently with a straightedge. This joint is the backbone of your boat, so take the time to do it right (Fig. 17).
Do most of your planing in a lengthwise direction to keep the bottom line smooth and free from dips. The bottoms of the bowstem, transom and crossmembers should also fit flush against the straightedge (Fig. 18).
Lie the 4x8 plywood sheets over the hull and draw an outline where they hit the bottom (Fig. 19).
When cutting the bottom, give yourself a little extra (Fig. 20). Excess can be easily removed with a rasp or belt sander after the underside has been fastened in position. Butt-join the bottom pieces as you did the sides. Then, attach the ship's belly using plenty of glue and fasteners, preferably screws of brass, galvanized steel or other metal coated with a saltwater resistant substance. Fasten it to the transom and struts as well as the chines (Fig. 20).
You can further finish and waterproof this seam by gluing and nailing a small trim piece along the outside (Fig. 21).
This is it! Turn her over and ... finis! The structure of your boat is basically complete. At this point it won't go anywhere, but it will float. The sides, of course, will retain some flex until internal buttressing is installed, so it may be a good idea to keep the center frame in place until you've gotten your ship upright. Once flipped onto her belly, the vessel will collect rain, and you'll have your first genuine bilge water right in your own backyard!
(Next month: Inside hull work, the keel, the mast and rigging!)
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