A COLONY CAGE FOR BACKYARD POULTRY FARMERS

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For seven to eight weeks the chicks are confined to the lefthand section of the coop, provided with heat, and fed from shallow troughs or pans of mash and water placed on the litter near the door. After that the box can be taken out, the partition removed, and the birds given the run of the cage.

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A good food container for older birds is a trough feeder fitted on the inside of the middle door. By making this unit deep and filling it only half full, you can reduce wastage by beak-swinging hens. A simple gravity waterer is excellent for this type of coop, since its large volume ensures less work for you and plenty of clean, fresh water for the flock.

The particular cage on which the plans are based was fitted with a roost pole . . . which isn't absolutely necessary, but pleases the hens and gets them off the cold wire at night Such a pole should be painted twice with crankcase oil, which has been diluted half-and-half with kerosene, to protect the flock from bloodsucking mites.

The two nest boxes—which are adequate for 10 to 12 layers—must be kept darkened with a burlap blind to encourage use by the hens (since birds seek privacy and darkness at laying time). The 1/2-inch square mesh of the nest floor gives a bit under the occupant's weight and prevents the egg from cracking when it's dropped.

One disadvantage of the conventional henhouse is that eggs often accumulate in the nests and are sat on and kept warm when other hens enter the boxes. Naturally, the quality of the layings deteriorates very quickly under these conditions, and cracks and breakage often result In the "C" cage, this problem is eliminated by a slanting nest-box floor which rolls the freshly laid eggs to an open air shelf. They cool quickly in that container and can be gathered whenever their collection is convenient.

As the hens' production declines, the partition can be replaced and preparations made for a new batch of chicks.

I've already pointed out, of course, that I don't regard the above system as ideal . . . but where little space is available, or ground enclosures are hazardous to a flock's health, the colony cage is a workable and humane alternative to the usual form of close confinement. Perhaps some of MOTHER's readers will find it useful. Good farming!

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