A COLONY CAGE FOR BACKYARD POULTRY FARMERS
(Page 2 of 3)
Conversely, this system does give rise to a few problems
(which are, however, easily prevented):
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[1] In some cases the birds' droppings won't dry fast
enough to avoid the breeding of flies. Manure should be
removed weekly when such pests are troublesome.
[2] Since limited space inclines chickens to cannibalism,
they should be debeaked (preferably before the onset of egg
production). This operation is easily done on a young bird
by removing the tip of the upper beak—just in front
of the pad—with a sharp knife, scissors, or side
cutters. (See Fig. 1.) To prevent bleeding and infection,
cauterize the wound by placing a hot knife against the cut
surface.
[3] The cage should be placed under shade to protect it
from direct sunlight when temperatures are high. This is
very important because the sheet-iron roof is an efficient
conductor of heat. On windy or rainy days, burlap bags can
be hung over the front of the coop. (According to some
interesting test results, higher egg production can be
maintained by protecting layers from wind . . .
particularly during the winter.)
Fig 3
Colony cage, complete with burlap blinds
and egg shelf.
The colony cage shown in the plans with this article was
built from the following materials:
[1] Packing crate boards (for back, sides, removable
partition, central wall supports, and nest-box frame)
[2] Five eucalyptus poles (two 60-inch-long posts for the
front uprights, two 54-inchers for the back, and an 8-foot
roost pole)
[3] 50 feet of 1 X 3 lumber strips (frame)
[4] 8 feet of heavy wire mesh, 3/4-inch square or
3/4 X 1-inch rectangular (floor)
[5] 10 feet of 1/2-inch-square galvanized mesh . . . not
the flimsy round type (doors and nest-box floor)
[6] Two raisin crates (nest boxes)
[7] One sheet of galvanized iron, 8 feet by 3 feet (roof)
[8] 2-inch straight nails, 3/4-inch U nails, flat-headed
galvanized roofing nails, hinges
Here's how the "C" cage operates: Chicks are started in the
left-hand compartment. Newspaper placed on the floor and
topped with about 2 or 3 inches of wood shavings (crushed
corncobs, cane fiber, peanut shells, etc.) will provide a
soft absorbent litter to keep the young birds dry and
clean.
A cardboard box, prepared as shown in Fig. 2 and fitted
with a 60-watt electric light bulb, is placed in the rear
of the compartment . . . or a kerosene lamp, surrounded by
a wire basket chick-protector, can be substituted (see Fig.
3).
