Feedback on ..."How to Mend a Barbed Wire Fence"
(Page 3 of 4)
Better yet, have the local welder make you a post-pounder .
. . a length of pipe large enough to fit over whatever
metal supports you're installing (commercial posts, iron
pipe, metal tubing, etc.). The cylinder—which can be
left plain or fitted with two handles—is topped with
a solid iron rod welded into one end. The total weight, of
course, should be suited to your strength.
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Such a device makes one-person fencing or repairs easy.
Just lay the post on the ground with its bottom end near
the hole, ready to stand up in the proper position. Slide
the pounder over the top, carefully set the whole business
upright, and hammer away by raising the weight and letting
it fall.
[9] If you don't have a post- or stake-pounder, a heavy old
axle or straight crowbar is a good substitute. Just hold
the bar upright above the post and bring it down on the
support's top. Such a tool is less tiring and less likely
to miss than a sledge-hammer, and you'll find it easier to
keep the post straight.
[10] One trouble with working alone is that there's no one
to tell you whether a post is set straight in its hole.
Here's a simple test: Squat a little to sight the timber
below the level of the pounder (if you're using one). Then
spot a distant utility pole or the vertical edge of a
budding and line up the fence support with that guide.
Perhaps you can find another such marker at right angles to
the line of the first, as a second check.
[11] Old barbed wire is often too brittle to be spliced in
the conventional way, but still thorny enough to turn
livestock. In that case, just pull the broken strand as
tight as possible by hand and twine the ends together with
long, gentle twists.
[12] When you use a hammer or wrecking bar to stretch wire,
or when you pound in staples, be very careful not to damage
the metal strands. Barbed wire—like glass—is
very strong but also very hard, and breaks easily if it's
slightly nicked or notched.
[13] I've stretched many a fence myself by gripping the
barb in the claw of an extra hammer or wrecking bar and
holding the tool's end with my body while I stapled or
twisted the wire. Or you can attach the strand to your
vehicle's trailer hitch—or to a heavy rope or cable
fastened to the front or rear bumper or axle—and
tighten it by moving the truck or whatever . . . but don't
pull it too taut or you'll break even new wire. Or you can
buy inexpensive pulley-and-rope fence stretchers which can
be locked once you've used them to pull a strand as taut as
you want it.