How to mend a barbedwire fence
A guide to repairing barbed wire fencing, including photographs, instructions.
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Spliced wire won't look just like new . . . but will save the expense and labor of' replacing a weary fence like this one.
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"If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have
time to do it over?" That's been our basic motto, and
usually it provides a pretty workable philosophy. Even the
best job is not necessarily permanent, though, and after 50
years or so even a well-built barbed wire fence may need to
be repaired.
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One approach is to build a completely new fence alongside
the old one, preferably before the first completely gives
way. This may sound obvious, "right", and permanent, but it
may not be the most practical. method of going about the
job. A fence, you see, usually gives way at its weakest
point, buteven after it starts to go down-may still have
many very serviceable portions remaining.
These good sections can be salvaged with relative ease,
while only the broken parts must be replaced. (Note the use
of the word relative. It means that fence repair is easier
than laying cement blocks, for example. It also means that
an afternoon nap is easier than mending a fence.)
The best time to repair a barbed wire fence is just before
it goes down. Sure, trying to work in the existing fence
row is difficult . . . but you'll at least be able to
choose the hours you want to put in on the chore. Once the
strands are suddenly down—on the other hand—and
the livestock are getting outor in!—it has to be
fixed then and there.
You'll find that it is easiest to replace defective posts
first. Start by unfastening the strands of wire (whether
tied or stapled to the upright) without cutting them. The
broken post—stump and all—is then removed. (A
pair of posthole diggers comes in very handy at this
point.)
A replacement post is next set about two feet deep in the
hole from which the broken upright was removed. And please
notice that I said "replacement" instead of "new". While it
doesn't make much sense to substitute a semi-rotten post
for a rotten one, it's often possible to scrounge (from the
toolshed or farm shop) a long-forgotten post of about the
same age and quality as the better ones still standing in
the fence row.
Whether your replacement post is brand new or reclaimed,
you'll have to push the strand of barb out of the way to
get it into position. An inch or two will usually do the
trick and—if you wear heavy enough clothes to protect
you from the wires' spikes—you can manage that quite
simply by just standing on the post side of the strands and
leaning against the stretched wires.
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