How to Build a Honey Extractor

Article Tools

Image Gallery

Print

E-mail

Comments

RSS

Dwayne started the project by choosing a 20-gallon garbage can to serve as a drum, and cutting a hole in the bottom near the outer edge. The opening is about an inch in diameter — to let the thick honey run out freely — and is fitted with a valve to cut off the flow.

The rectangular inner basket, which holds the frames of the honey extractor, is 8-1/4" X 11-1/4" X 16" — the largest size that will fit in the garbage can with spinning room left over. Its maximum load is four small frames (5-3/8" X 17-5/8"), or four medium (6-1 /4" X 17-5/8"), or two deep (9-1 /8" X 17-5/8") plus any other two smaller frames.

The basket's framework is made of welded angle iron with a center rod on which the container spins. The bottom is perforated sheet metal from the back of an old TV set. This panel is sturdy enough to support the weight of four frames full of honey, and the openings are large enough to allow the honey to run into the can. The container's sides are of welded wire mesh which we had on hand. Any, similar material could be used just as well.

The basket works on the same principle as the spinning tub of a washing machine: It turns with enough speed to force the honey out of the comb and fling it against the side of the garbage can, where it runs down the wall and out the bottom drain. We've found that the necessary rate of spin is about 175 to 200 rpm, depending on the thickness of the liquid.

Across the top of the can, Dwayne built a base for the motor from hardwood crating boards we happened to have around. (Almost any TV or appliance dealer has sturdy packing materials to throw away.) The motor itself — a 1/4-hp, 1,750-rpm, 110-volt electric type — was also scrounged up "for free." Such units are very common and can often be found at auctions for a couple of dollars.

The biggest expense in the construction of our honey extractor was the 10-to-1 gear reduction, a worm drive gear train purchased for $7.95. A pulley-and-belt arrangement is used to drive the gears, and the pulley size can be changed if necessary to vary the speed of rotation. (The parts can be assembled in almost any workable combination. It's best, however, to keep the device as simple as possible.)

Dwayne's final step was to build a heavy-duty stand from more crating boards. The whole works is fastened firmly to this base so the honey extractor won't scoot across the room and run us down when it starts spinning.

We're still novices at this beekeeping business ... but we've already discovered this much: With some handyman ability and a little extra work, it's possible to run such an operation without having to invest a lot of money. If you're seriously considering a start with bees but have no experience and little cash, don't let that deter you. We began the same way, and we know it can be done.

RSS | Comments | E-mail | Print