HOMESTEAD WELDING

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The next step is to light the torch. Open the oxygen inlet valve (the one closest to the green hose) all the way, but make sure the oxygen preheat valve—the one way up on the torch near the cutting lever—is open only about a quarter turn. Have your goggles down and your gloves on. Pick up the striker and open the acetylene stopcock about half a turn just before igniting the gases at the torch tip. Be sure the business end of the unit is pointed away from you, from anyone else and from all flammable objects.

You must then balance the acetylene with the oxygen to produce the "neutral" flame which is ideal for cutting (see Fig.1). Adjust the acetylene control on the torch-try closing it an eighth of a turn or so—and you'll notice how the smoky orange flare decreases, giving way to the cleaner neutral flame. Adjustments to the cutting and preheat valves will give further
refinement. The whole idea is to keep the inner cone closest to the torch tip burning in such a way that—when the cutting lever is pressed—this central portion doesn't change length. It's a good idea to have an experienced welder show you exactly what the correct flame should look like . . . words can go only so far.

Once you've got the flame adjusted, place the torch tip so that the inner cone is about one-eighth of an inch from the piece of steel to be cut. When the area turns red-hot, press down on the oxygen cutting lever and blow away the molten metal in the strong stream of gas. The torch is best kept at an angle of about 600 to the work, with the tip pointing in the direction of travel. Moving it too fast will result in no cut. (I hope these hints help you, but a good, clean job comes only with experience.)

As an aid to neat work you can draw a guideline on the metal with a soapstone marker, available at any welding supply store. When making longer cuts-say anything over 10 inches—I usually clamp a rugged piece of angle iron next to the intended line and run the torch along its back edge for a nice, accurate result.

After the piece has been cut, it's good practice to knock the slag from the edge with a, cold chisel and ball-peen hammer. Finish the work with a grinder for a smooth, machined appearance.

Fine! Your special piece of steel is down to size and you're ready to fabricate that certain part you need to repair the cultivator. It's time to fire up the arc-welding machine.

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