How to Use a Straight Razor

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After I'd learned the ins and outs of wielding a straight razor, I began to have fun with the stainless steel boys when they gathered to swap lies about the number of shaves they were getting from a single blade. I'd look around the group and top them all by saying, "I use a straight razor, and I'd hate to tell you guys how many shaves that one blade has given me."

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I usually keep several straight razors on hand now. Most are hollow-ground (the best, most comfortable shaves obtainable come from hollow-ground straight razors) and some have pretty fancy handles, which doesn't help their performance any but which are nice to look at. All are in good working condition and all are first-class instruments. Every once in a while someone gets interested and I turn him on to this "new" method of shaving. Generally he goes away with one of the razors and a much happier face.

Here are some tips for the man who wants to try it:

(1) Don't buy a new razor unless you're sure that it does not have a stainless steel blade. Stainless steel won't hold an edge worth a good damn. Look for good quality old-time razors in your local junk and antique shops. Examine the blades of the ones you find, the best are made of Sheffield steel and are clearly marked so on the blade. Don't pay money for a fancy handle unless that's what you really want.

(2) Check the blade's cutting edge for nicks. Don't accept even the slightest imperfection and don't let the man tell you that such nicks will come out. It's your face, baby, and a jagged cutting edge will make it look like a battle map, and no, those nicks won't come out.

(3) If you think the blade is OK, have a look at the handle. It may be wood, bone, horn, celluloid or, possibly, some other material I've never seen. Make sure the handle is in good shape. Plain or fancy, its primary job is to give you something to hold the razor by and something to fold the blade into. If it's broken ANYWHERE , the razor is potentially dangerous to your face and your hands.

(4) You can lose a lot of flesh if the blade flops too easily. You're much better off with one that is hinged into its handle a little too tightly.

If you pay more than $2.50 for your used razor, you're getting ripped off. I have personally never shelled out more than $2.00 for a razor in Class A shape. If that's too steep, scrounge around. The one I'm using now didn't cost me anything. Lots of folks have grandpa's old shaving implement lying around rusting in a drawer and will be glad to get rid of it before little Wilbur finds the cussed thing and whacks off his arm.

Try barbers as a last resort only. A lot of them have abandoned the straight razor and changed over to using electric clippers on necks. They often have good razors lying around unused, but again, don't pay a premium for one. Remember, the barber doesn't need the thing and he's already making a living cutting hair, Western Man's second most ridiculous cultural ritual.

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