Build Your Own Potter's Kick Wheel
(Page 5 of 5)
November/December 1970
By Jon Kaplan
Now lift the flywheel unit and place it in the bottom flange bearing (phew!). Tighten the set screw. The bearings are self-aligning, which means you'll only have to check for 90-degree plumb with a plumb-bob.
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Slide its upper pillow block bearing down the shaft, secure it in place on the bearing support structure and tighten its set screw. Use the plumb-bob to check alignment of the shaft. If necessary, you'll probably be able to loosen the lag screws that hold the top bearing in place and slide it slightly left or right as needed.
Your wheel is now complete, save for the wheel head. Shellac the frame and let it dry.
The wheel head is a hassle. American Art Clay Co. sells a few, but they're expensive. American Art has two kinds: A flat circular metal disc and a recessed head, which accepts plaster bats.
The recessed heads are nice. When you finish a pot — instead of cutting it off or waiting around for it to dry — you just lift the plaster bat, pot and all, off and go right on. I dug up the bread for one of these.
If you do buy from American Art, specify that you want a head for a 1-inch diameter shaft. Most of their heads are for a standard 5/8-inch shaft but they'll bore one out for you. The company also sells a mold for the plaster bats.
Your wheel is now finished. It's rugged, and will need little or no maintenance other than an occasional tightening of a bolt. The Sealmaster or Timken sealed bearings never need lubrication. If you happen to use unsealed bearings you might have to add a couple of drops of oil to each one once or twice a year. One don't: Never step directly on the flywheel. You'll weaken its supports and it may then someday spin out.
I've built two versions of this wheel — one somewhat more elaborate — and both are excellent tools. They've given many people, myself included, great joy. I extend special thanks to Don Mauros, to whom I apprenticed in 1968 and who taught me to build a potter's wheel.
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