Build Your Own Potter's Kick Wheel

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After it has dried — if epoxy is used — attach the pipe flanges to the 23-inch disc with wood screws and epoxy the outside of the outer flange to the wood. In fact, even if you were able to weld the flanges, use the epoxy here. The finished unit must be rigid.

Drill the four 5/8-inch holes in the 23-inch disc, as described for the pulley wheel method, and attach the 7-inch high tar paper mold around the edge of the disc. Cut the four 12-inch long sections of 5/8-inch dowel, place them in the 5/8-inch holes, rigidly support the shaft-disc assembly with the shaft (ideally) absolutely vertical and pour in the 4 to 5 inches of cement. As the cement hardens, replace the 5/8-inch dowels with the 1/2-inch bolts.

OK. Here's the major difference between the pulley wheel and flange methods of attaching the flywheel to the shaft: Whereas the top pulley wheel was embedded right in the cement, the top flange rests on the cement and is fastened to it with screws and concrete anchors.

Here's how you do it: When the cement is absolutely dry, slide the top flange down over the shaft, let it rest on the cement and mark on the concrete the position of the holes in the flange's flared tip. Depending on the brand of the flange, there will probably be either three or four of these holes.

Slide the flange up off the shaft and, using a masonry bit, drill holes in the cement to accept plastic or lead anchors. Place epoxy in the holes, insert the anchors, slide the flange down the shaft into place and insert some flat head wood screws 2 inches long. The holes in the concrete must be more than 2 inches deep for this method.

Naturally, you'll have made sure the diameter of the screws, the size of the anchors and the diameter of the masonry bit all match properly. The clerk at the hardware store can help you if this is your first experience with concrete anchors. Actually, they're quite easy to use if you have the right size for the job.

Aligning the Bearings

A word of advice: Now is the time to locate the wheel where you want it because, once the flywheel is in place, this is a heavy unit to move. When you have the frame positioned, check it for level and shim under the corners if necessary.

You may have to remove the seat from the frame to get the flywheel in. Maybe not. In any case, remove the top pillow block bearing, lift (careful!) the flywheel unit and gently place it inside the wheel frame. Rest.

If you can get a small (about 3/8-inch) steel ball, grease it and place it in the bearing cup of the bottom flange bearing to absorb some thrust. If you can't find one, no sweat. It's not at all necessary (the bearing will take the thrust) but do make certain that the bottom of the shaft does not rest on the wooden 4-by-4. If it does, either cut off the end of the shaft or relieve a spot of the 4-by-4 directly under the center of the flange bearing.

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