Build Your Own Potter's Kick Wheel

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Check periodically for level as you add these pieces. If you like a higher seat, relative to the throwing head, elevate the back two supports somewhat. This is subject to the whims of the individual potter.

Two pieces of plywood, 1-by-12-by-30 inches, will be the seat and the working table. They are secured to their 2-by-4 supports with eight 2-inch wood screws. See Fig. 5 in the Image Gallery.

Note how the working top extends inward from the outside edge to the middle of the frame and the seat extends outward from the back of the frame. I've found this to be the best arrangement.

Fabricating the support for the top pillow block bearing is the last step of frame construction. Work very carefully and precisely here and you won't have any trouble when you later level the shaft.

Before the top bearing support is constructed, you should mount the flange bearing in position on the 4-by-4 crosspiece of the bottom frame. Locate the exact middle, which should be 15 inches from either side. Predrill the holes with a 1/4 or 5/16-inch bit and use the 3/8-inch lag bolts to secure the bearing firmly to the 4-by-4. Now fabricate the pillow block bearing support out of 2-by-4s as shown in Fig. 6 (see Image Gallery).

Note that the screws securing the bearing go through two pieces of 2-by-4. This whole unit must be strong, so take care that you don't split the wood when putting in the lags. Predrill the holes first with a 3/16-inch bit. Also, the ends of pieces No. 2 and 3 (against which the side of piece No. 1 butts) must be cut square.

Now, locate the center of the working top (15 inches in from both ends) and mark it with a pencil. Center the bearing structure (left-right) on this mark. Then drop a plumb-bob through the inside of the top bearing and suspend it as nearly as possible in the exact center of the bearing. (It may help to lay a nail across the opening to let the string slide over.) Let the plumb-bob down and by moving the whole upper bearing support structure, locate the center of the bottom bearing.

What you want is to position the top bearing directly over the lower bearing so that the shaft — when inserted through the bearings — will be (ideally) exactly vertical, or plumb. See Fig. 7 in the Image Gallery.

With a pencil, mark the position of the bearing support structure. There might be some wood extending over the front edge of the working top, so mark the structure underneath for reference, later to be cut off. Drill 4 holes (2 in each) in pieces 2 and 3 so that they will coincide with the supports for the working top. Mark this location on the top, and then drill through the top into the 2-by-4s. Or, you can clamp the sup port structure to the top and its supports with a large C-clamp and drill directly through all the components at once. Use the 9-by-1/2-inch bolts to secure the bearing support structure to the frame.

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