Horseshoeing for the Rank Beginner
(Page 6 of 6)
September/October 1970
By the Mother Earth News editors
Bend each point over with the clinchers, using the curved jaw on the nail point, while being sure that the straight jaw is covering the head of the same nail. Don't try to complete the clinch with the clinchers, as this may weaken your nail. Just bend the nail far enough so that you can finish the job with your hammer. Hammer the points flush into the grooves, and you are done.
RELATED CONTENT
If clinching with a clinching block or the edge of your rasp, take a position facing the sole of the hoof when starting the clinches. Hold the block under each nail point with the hand that is supporting the hoof, and hammer the head sharply until the nail is bent over enough to allow you to finish setting the point with the hammer. Even if you have a set of clinchers at home in your box, you will need to use this method occasionally on the trail, so it is well to understand it.
BASIC TOOLS AND SUPPLIES
LEATHER APRON: Not an absolute necessity for cold shoeing, but it's safer, and one pair of Levi's saved will darn near pay for an apron.
HOOF PICK, BROKEN PRITCHEL, DULL FARRIER'S KNIFE or the like.
SHOEING HAMMER: I prefer the lighter weight (12 oz.)
CLINCH CUTTER or COLD CHISEL.
PINCHERS: For pulling shoes, or any work where the edges will contact metal.
HOOF KNIFE: Must be sharp. Keep a rattail file in your box and USE IT before each job.
NIPPERS: For use only to trim CLEAN hooves. When removing dirt and stones from sole, check to be sure pieces of the old nails haven't been left in the wall. Baby the edges. I prefer the type which has two cutting edges. It gives me better control.
RASPS: I keep a sharp one, handled, in a makeshift cardboard sheath to protect the cutting edges. I also keep an older one to use for finishing work after the shoe is on.
FARRIER'S ANVIL: See Figure 6.
BLACKSMITH HAMMER.
PRITCHEL.
END CUTTER PLIERS, 7".
ALLIGATOR CLINCHERS or CLINCHING BLOCK.
TOOL BOX: See Figure 9.
SHOES: For general purposes, you can handle most any chore if you have a small supply of 00's, 0's, 1's and 2's, either flat plates or with mild toe and heel caulks. If you have a few 00's in flat plates you can cut off the heels for smaller animals (down to a limit).
NAILS: A basic supply would include a few No. 4 regular head and No. 6 city head. Most of your jobs would take No. 5 city and No. 5 regular. Small frozen juice concentrate cans with labeled plastic lids make good containers.
There's a lot of satisfaction in being able to shoe your own horse. And locating a farrier when you need him can be difficult. There's no particular magic to the job, just a little patience and common sense. But don't underestimate the value of observation that I mentioned at the start of this article. If you've already watched quite a few horses shod, you may be closer to being a farrier than you realize. If you've seen different men do the job, you've noted certain ones where they operate differently. All of these observations will give you clues as to methods you want to accept, try, or reject. Then take an old gentle pony with sound feet and try your hand. Maybe some of my ideas here will help you over a few of the rough spots, as I have tried to elaborate where I encountered unexpected problems while learning. Then get an outspoken experienced hand to criticize your job, and you'll be well on your way.
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