You Can Drive Your Own Well
(Page 2 of 3)
July/August 1970
excerpted from Popular Mechanics
It is wise to use the best possible equipment. You will need a pump, a wellpoint (1 1/4-in. diameter recommended), lengths of galvanized steel riser pipe, couplings, a drive cap, and pipe-thread compound. Tools include an auger or a post-hole digger, a driving device and pipe wrenches.
RELATED CONTENT
A hand-operated pitcher pump is sufficient for driven wells when the water lift does not exceed about 22 ft. at sea level. At 5000 feet above sea level, the limit of water lift is about 20 ft. Pitcher pumps depend upon a partial vacuum to operate; it is essential that all joints be airtight. Pipe compound helps achieve this.
If the water lift in your area is greater than the limits mentioned, a power-driven centrifugal pump and 2-in.-dia. equipment must be used. Normally, 40 ft. is about the limit to which a 2-in. well can be driven with hand tools. A 2-in. well is not only more difficult to drive than a 1 1/4-in. well but, also requires that a 1 1/4-in., drop-pipe (with turned couplings) be permanently installed inside.
Driving can be done with a heavy maul or sledge or with a tripod as shown. Since it is difficult to deliver square, solid blow, with the maul, this is not recommended Glancing blows may break or bend the pipe or strip the threads. Whichever method of driving you decide to use, remember that the riser pipe must be kept perfectly vertical.
The first step is to dig a hole in the ground. The hole can be made with a post-hole digger or hand auger. Here, again, the hole should be vertical and should be dug as deeply as possible to cut down on driving distance.
Assemble the wellpoint, using R & D couplings and pipe-joint compound, to one or more lengths of riser pipe, depending upon the depth of the hole. Fasten a malleable-iron drive cap to the top of the riser pipe. Make certain that all joints are as tight as possible. To avoid breakage of the pipe or splitting of the couplings it is advisable to use pipe wrenches no longer than 24 in.
Insert the assembly into the hole and begin driving. Check frequently to insure that the pipe stays plumb and that the threaded joints remain tight during driving by giving the riser pipe a half turn with a wrench. Always turn to the right, but do not twist the pipe severely. Use the wrench just enough to take up any slack. When the driving tool will no longer strike the cap, add another length of riser pipe.
Pour water into the well, and alongside the drive pipe, at regular intervals. It makes driving easier, and tells when you have reached a water-bearing sand formation. When the wellpoint reaches water-bearing sand, you will notice an increase in the rate of descent of the drive pipe. It can be as much as 6 in. with each blow. When you think the point is in waterbearing sand, pour water into the pipe. If it stays in the point you guessed right. If it drains out, it's back to the driver. If the point is in clay, or other nonwater-bearing material, the water will either remain in the pipe or the drop in water level will be extremely slight.
